Cycling Seoul to Busan : My Journey

One Girl, One Bike, Two Panniers, and 633kms.

Here I was, ready for the adventure of a lifetime. Despite having little to no experience in long-distance cycling, I had been contemplating this journey for quite some time. The final decision was made during my stay at a capsule hotel in Singapore, where the blue and white interior resembled a space capsule. It was then that I decided to rent a bike and put myself to the test.

I successfully completed the trial run in Singapore, but that’s a story for another day. Right now, I want to share my solo cycling journey from Seoul to Busan.

I embarked on this journey with no idea that it would become my most vivid memory of South Korea. Over the course of 12 days, I pedaled solo from Seoul (Incheon) to Busan, covering a distance of 633 kilometers. It was a challenging feat in a country where Google Maps doesn’t function and language barriers make communication feel like an uphill battle, much like the “Sajae Path.”

Arriving in Seoul three days before my planned departure, I took the time to explore the city and indulge in some tourist activities. But soon enough, my focus shifted to the reason I had come to this land of beautiful people: my epic cycling adventure.

Day 1: Incheon to Gangnam (E residency hotel)
Ride: 52.20 kms
I kicked off my Seoul adventure by booking a hotel in the vibrant district of Gangnam. It seemed like the perfect starting point and a fitting end to my city exploration. To tackle the journey, I rented a bike from BikeNara, who were incredibly helpful and easy to communicate with.
From Gangnam, I hopped on the metro to Mapo to pick up my trusty bike. Stay tuned for all the rental details in a separate blog post! The BikeNara team gave me some top-notch advice: I took the bike on the subway from Hongik University station to Cheongna Station. From there, I cruised towards the Ara West sea lock gate, where I’d get my Bike Passport and officially kick off my epic 633-kilometer journey.

Day 2: Gangnam to Gyeongi-do (Blue Hill Park Inn, 566-3 Yangsu-ri, Yangseo-myeon, Yangpyeong-gun, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea, 경기도 양평군 양서면 양수리 566-3)
Ride: 50 kms
Leaving the bustling streets of Seoul behind, I eagerly embarked on my journey southward. Yet, a tinge of nervousness crept in—I hadn’t booked my accommodation. Pushing forward until the late afternoon, I stumbled upon a charming, traffic-free town.
With Kakao Map as my trusty guide, I set out to find a place to rest my weary head. After a bit of searching, I struck gold: a cozy hotel/motel willing to accommodate both me and my bike right at the entrance. I was nervous leaving the city, this was my only time to think if I continue or I turn back, I so wanted to be on the road that the excitement was too high to keep my hopes low.

Day 3- Gyeongi-do to Yeouju (J Motel, 39, Junae-ro, Yeoju-si, Gyeonggi-do, 경기도 여주시 시 주내로 39 KR)
Ride: 54 kms
As I kept pedaling, the reality of continuous cycling sank in. With no prior experience, every muscle in my body was feeling the strain, pushing forward with every pedal stroke. But amidst the physical exertion, the stunning landscapes around me stole my attention—the winding roads lined with aging trees, and the distant mountains standing tall on the horizon.
I used to follow the paper map that was given along with the passport and also this website.
Life was simpler, you wakeup, you get ready, you cycle, you see the people who you probably never gonna see again, you pass the mountains you will never climb, you see the rivers flowing by and you end your day at a new place with new views.

Day 4: Yeouju to Chungju
Ride: 74 kms
Feeling confident after three days of continuous riding, I cruised along with ease. The mostly flat terrain reminded me of Singapore, but with far more captivating scenery. It was less like riding and more like sailing, with occasional inclines adding excitement to the journey. And let me tell you about the unforgettable highlight of the day—the infamous “Love Motel.”
Now, Korean Love Motels are something else entirely. Unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere, they’re prepared for, well, everything one might need for a romantic rendezvous. Meanwhile, here I was, just cycling and cycling. Yet, despite the unexpected pitstop, I managed to clock the most kilometers of my journey so far.

Day 5: Chungju to Mungyeong (P4J5+4V5 Mungyeong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do, South Korea)
Ride: 52 kms
I had almost reached at the middle of this small country, but I made a mistake, in all the glory of covering 74 kms the highest ever in this journey, I was confident of completing Sajae path in the record one day, what an naive thought when I look back at it today. In Sajae path, I confronted two daunting challenges: the Sojo Mountain pass and the Ihwa Mountain pass. It was here that my lack of experience hit me for the first time, but it also marked the beginning of my journey towards building that experience.
It was easier for me to think “I don’t know why I put myself in this situation”,
“Should I be even doing this?” With nobody to share my anxieties or to offer words of encouragement, I realized that solo travel demands self-reliance in every aspect. From boosting my own morale to finding accommodation and navigating challenging situations, it was all on me.
Yet, in this solitude, I discovered a certain tranquility. There’s a simplicity in just focusing on pedaling forward, knowing that the only task at hand is to keep cycling. Embracing this mindset, I found myself thriving.
As I traveled along the road, I noticed a pattern in my thoughts, similar to the ups and downs of the terrain. Just like the hills I faced, my thoughts had their highs and lows. But what struck me was how my thoughts seemed happier during the upward moments.
In those uplifting moments, a simple yet profound realization echoed within me:
“When there is none, remember you are the one.” It’s a reminder that even in the absence of external support or validation, I possess the power within myself to keep moving forward, to find joy in the journey, and to overcome any obstacles that come my way.
P.S: by far the hardest day in my Journey was Day 5. I rode 40 kms in 30 minutes and for the next 5 kms it took me 3 hours to climb.

Day 6: Rest in Mungyeong
Ride: 0 kms
After the ride, I knew I needed a break. I was hoping to take one near Andong. But I knew I won’t be able to stretch more if I don’t take a break. I had reoccurring sciatica pain, I was eating the same food since last 7 days, as I am a Vegetarian. So I took a break in the small picturesque town called Mungyeong. The town has a river flowing, few good looking cafes with average tasting drinks. My motel was right in middle of the valley surrounded by mountains and river, I rested for like half a day, and ventured out to explore the town on my foot. I was not even thinking of cycling even for a single pedal.
In my free and bored time, I decided to practice handstands which I had stopped for reason unknown. This is the day I realised how exhausted and tired I was, but how much I enjoyed being on this journey in this undecided places where I know nothing about where will I sleep at night, what are the people conversing (all this drama/tv/YT videos didn’t help), what should I eat, or if I will be able to cover the average distance today.
It took me to watch 30 Korean dramas and movies, watching multiple Korean language videos and google translate to realise I have always loved the charm of unknown. There is something so poetically scary to be on the road, not knowing where will I stay today, and if cycle will get punctured. I loved every milliseconds of this journey with few minutes of arguing that I might not.

Day 7: Mungyeong to Nakdong-ri (Motel Inn, 451-2 Nakdong-ri, Nakdong-myeon, 경상북도 상주시 낙동면 낙동리 451-2)
Ride: 65 kms
After my much-needed break, I hit the road again, knowing I was halfway through my journey with the daunting Sagae Path still ahead. They say it’s so high even birds struggle to cross it, and here I am, a bird without wings.
But this time felt different. Mentally prepared for the challenge ahead, I found it surprisingly easier. That’s the beauty of the mind—it can be trained to tackle obstacles, unlike this stubborn physical body that needs actual action.
Along the way, I met some incredible souls who showed me kindness in various forms: water bottles, raincoats, even vegetarian red bean buns from a guy named Samuel, not to mention cough medicine for my nagging cough. The list goes on, and the kindness of strangers never ceased to amaze me.

Day 8: Nakdong-ri to Chilgok-gun (Centro Tourist hotel, South Korea, Gyeongsangbuk-do, Chilgok-gun, Waegwan-eup, 중앙로 152-3 KR, 경상북도 칠곡군 왜관읍 중앙로 152-3 KR)
Ride: 60 kms
Ending Sajae path was bittersweet, now as I was venturing into cities, I found the cycling path becoming smoother, allowing for a more effortless ride. Covering a distance of 60 kilometers, I encountered some decent hills along the way, although nothing as challenging as the Sajae path. The landscapes remained breathtaking throughout, but entering Chilgok-gun proved to be an adventure of its own. In the midst of urban surroundings, I faced an unexpected challenge—finding a motel that would accommodate my bike. After visiting several places, I encountered resistance to bringing my bike inside the room, which meant I’d have to rearrange my panniers in the morning. Eager to avoid this hassle, I continued my search.
So there I was, ready to crash at yet another motel, feeling optimistic until the receptionist hit me with a curveball: check-in wasn’t until 6:00 pm! Seriously? not even 4:00, but 6:00? I decided to keep trying a Motel to the least offering a check at 4:00 pm. I found the next motel, my wallet be damned given it was expensive compared to others. Desperate times call for desperate measures, right? but I have realised, you are going to spend money till you breathe. So I went ahead and stayed in this fanciest hotel.

Day 9: Chilgok-gun to Daegu (Hotel Dijon, South Korea, Daegu, Dalseong-gun, Hyeonpung-myeon, 테크노공원로 31, 대구광역시 달성군 현풍면 테크노공원로 31)
Ride: 62 kms
As I continued cycling, covering 60-70 kilometers felt like a breeze, until I encountered a massive hill along the way. But as they say, with every ascent comes a thrilling descent. Now, Daegu may be known for its music industry, apples, and V from BTS, but for me, it’s the 4th biggest city in South Korea. The landscapes were transitioning into a more urban setting, and the weather was getting warmer. It was a refreshing change from the days of conquering hills. And to top it off, I stumbled upon an Indian restaurant in Daegu, offering a welcome break from the theplas I’d been munching on for the past 11 days.
I was Happy and Indian.

Day 10: Daegu to Gyeongsangnam-do (Red Principal Motel, 2917-1 Uihap-daero, Cheongdeok-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do, South Korea, 경상남도 합천군 청덕면 의합대로 2917-1)
Ride: 45 kms
As I learned about the daunting hill looming ahead, I opted to conclude my day earlier and take a moment to rest before facing it. Consequently, this became my shortest distance covered in my journey thus far. At an intersection boasting just one restaurant, one motel, and one convenience store, I was nervous if this motel had no empty rooms, I will have no choice than to approach the hill and ride till 7 pm to find accommodation. But universe had my back, I got the room, not the sassiest, but the most affordable one and most picturesque too.
I was not in state of complaining, I was conserving my energy for the next day, making me closer to finish this journey I call “Expedition Limitless”.

Day 11: Gyeongsangnam-do to Miryang-si (Gung Motel, 9PF4+H7 Miryang-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, South Korea)
Ride: 67 kms
I had heard all about it—the notorious climb that had become the stuff of legends. Rumor had it that cries for help were etched all over the bridge, as if warning weary travelers of the challenge that lay ahead. With hope and confidence, I attempted to cycle up the steep incline, but after few tries, I knew it was futile. The gradient was just too unforgiving. So, alongside my trusty companion, Ira (my bike), I resigned myself to walking.
Along the way, I encountered three curious boys in their late 20s and 30s. They were intrigued by my heavy bike and asked if they could give it a try. With a shrug, I agreed, but none of them could even budge it. One, who looked like a gym bro, attempted to lift it, only to realize it was a lost cause. As we chatted, they couldn’t wrap their heads around how I managed to cycle with such a load. With a mischievous grin, I joked that maybe I wasn’t real after all. The beauty of meeting strangers is that they’ll judge you, but you won’t care. To them, I was just the crazy Indian girl on this solo adventure with a bike loaded with kilos of luggage. Little did they know about my background in mountaineering where we trekked for 3 days with 25 kilos on back. Watch it here.

Day 12: Miryang-si to Busan
Ride: 70 kms
The final day began with a hint of sadness creeping in. Not being a fan of big cities, the prospect of nearing the second-largest city in South Korea left me feeling a bit disheartened. Despite knowing that today marked the end of my journey, I found myself slowing down, wanting to savor every moment a little longer. It felt like I was reaching the southern edge too soon, wishing the country stretched out further. Nonetheless, I pressed on, covering almost 70 kilometers on mostly flat terrain with the occasional small, steep climbs sprinkled in. As I pedaled, I couldn’t help but reflect on the adventure behind me and the mixed emotions that came with bidding farewell to the open road.
—————-

If I had to pinpoint my favorite days from those 12, it would undoubtedly be the ones spent tackling the Sajae Path. Those three days tested me in ways I never imagined, pushing me to the limits of my endurance. When you find yourself in a foreign land where language is a barrier and Google Maps is rendered useless, it’s natural to feel a twinge of fear creeping in.

“What if my phone battery dies?” “What if I lose network?” “What if I get a flat tire and have no clue how to fix it?”

These “what ifs” could have easily overwhelmed me, but instead, they became stepping stones to newfound confidence. For two whole days, I didn’t encounter a single cyclist or engage in conversation with anyone. Even hotel/motel came with Vending Machine kind of booking system.
Yet, amidst the solitude and uncertainty, I found a sense of peace—a kind of meditation on wheels. It’s funny how life throws us into the unknown, only for us to emerge stronger and more self-aware on the other side.
—————–
I entered Busan.
I had cycled the whole country from North to South,
I have taken a little of everything with me in moments, but nothing in material,
people who offered help,
who offered food, (thanks Samuel)
who offered raincoat and water while I was struggling on a hill and it started raining,
who gave me those stamina drink to cheer me, (thanks Kim)
to those who guided me on my adventures in Jeju.

I have received nothing but kindness,
that’s all that we humans need.

also a two wheel and courage to do break the limits:)

Will be launching the blog on details about cycle rental and costs, So keep reading.
and if you can be patient, I am making a YT video as well, so keep following my crazy journey:)